Fashion month has ended taking away with it one of the most shining star of the Fashion firmament
Text by: Annarosa Laureti
Last Chanel FW 2019 collection was an emotional goodbye to that designer, creative director, artist and legend who has been leading the French maison for over 35 years, since 1983.
Despite his passing away, the master couturier has welcomed his guests for a last time as only him could do: in tandem with his partner Virginie Viard – now at the head of Chanel – he has always imagined a peaceful place where to forget Parisian crowd and chaos for a while. This time the Grand Palais turned in a restful and white Alpine village, where the sun is shining and the snow covered up everything.
Designer’s muses and favourite models turn into glamorous dwellers and vacationers of this candid place surrounded by chalets and high mountains.
With a dandy allure, a fierily Cara Delevingne opened the show in a houndstooth overcoat and a big check motif jumpsuit. Tweed, topstitched and quilted suits from wide-cut pants and high waists, taken from the men wardrobe, are made gentle matched with straight or double-breasted and trapeze or belted coats. Boleros and mini cape see faux fur lapel and high collar while the iconic tweed jackets are woven or almost raw in thick wool braid.
Curious motifs referring to those of Tirolese tradition enhance knee puddle skirts, dresses and knit pullovers while little ski men and CC chairlifts are printed on soft second skin tops, skirts and dresses in white chiffon that, with their flounces and scalloped collars, create moving and flowing effects step by step.
And again it cannot miss sporty and urban wear: colored puffer coats, zip-up ski suits, pencil skirts and a total look in beige leather.
Accessories include knitted scarfs in embroidered chiffon, necklace of chains or beads and pearls, chain belts and double C clapped bags, removable purses attached to small bags with straps and finally hip bags from camellias details.
Models walk down the snowing catwalk in brogans from the platform sole, showing us pieces of winter and mountains colors, sometimes enlightened by bright tones of purple, fuchsia and emerald green.
To end, pure and gentle snow white total looks take us from Tirolese village directly to paradise: angelic models show off mini “snow ball” skirts and dresses in chiffon and feathers, enriched with white and gold vinyl embroidered snowflakes.
The finale sees everybody truly moved: all Karl’s muses – from Cara to Mariacarla Boscono, form Vittoria Ceretti to Kaia Gerber passing through the Chanel ambassador Penelope Cruz – as usual retraced together the catwalk to say a last touching goodbye to the couturier, maybe thinking at the end of an era.
As David Bowie sang, “we can be heroes just for one day” but surely there are people who could be heroes forever and, without any doubt, Karl is one of them.
Cover: Chanel FW 2019 Collection Finale, Photo by Olivier Saillant, Courtesy of Chanel