AS A TrULY RuNNEr, PITtI UOmO 96 PAsSES THe BATOn AT MILaN FAShION WEeK BRINgING HOmE A GReAT REsULT
Text by: Annarosa Laureti
Concluded just yesterday, Pitti Uomo 96 confirms once again its own guide role for all those small and medium-sized companies that build up Italian (and not only) fashion panorama, becoming also attractive for several luxury brands that have been Milanese FW calendar’s main characters for some time.
This year in fact Florence saw, during the four-day event, new actors competing for the stage with old beloved friends and special foreign guests. From Gucci to Salvatore Ferragamo, from Marco De Vincenzo to MSGM, passing through Givenchy, this edition of Pitti Uomo was the one of anniversaries – the very Pitti Immagine celebrated 30 years – as well as that of the great returns!
For the second year in a row, Gucci Garden inaugurated its spaces on the occasion of Pitti Uomo events. Last Tuesday the temples inside Palazzo della Mercanzia – created by Alessandro Michele and curated by Maria Luisa Frisa – opened its doors to the public showing a renewed guise.
This time the setting proposed a sort of journey inside latest Gucci codes: starting with “Détournement” – the room that reflects Gucci spirit of cultural inclusions and eclecticism – the trip continues with a focused on the bag, inside “Bagology” room, in addition to that of the cherished theme of travel fascination, as we can see from the “Cosmorama” wall. On the second floor, “Ouroboros” rooms recall the ancient symbol of the snake, reinterpreted alongside the latest Gucci collection as well as the very theme of the Flora itself. After passing the “Cosmics Colors” room, the journey ends with the “Jardin d’Hiver”, a full immersion inside a bizarre kind of Gucci nature.
Finally, in addition to the fairy and provocative Gucci artifacts and new objects – from a special version of Gucci Bamboo as well as of Gucci Décor pieces and much more – inside Gucci Garden we find also exclusive items realized by the artist Livia Carpenzano. Inspired by her personal interpretation of Ovidio’s Metamorphosis and by some of her own sketches, Carpenzano embellished bags, t-shirts and sweatshirts with illustrations.
Old loves always come back and Ferragamo fashion show at Piazza della Signoria proved that. “Florence is our heart, a part of our history” Ferruccio Ferragamo, brand’s President said. Models – walking down a catwalk with Palazzo Vecchio as background – showed Spring Summer 2020 Collection pieces of pastel and feminine colors and pure shapes, designed by the creative director Paul Andrew who for the first time created for both women’s and men’s wardrobe, under the wise gaze of Guillaume Meilland, Head of Menswear. A sporty attitude harmoniously mixed up with the iconic Ferragamo elegance as well as with workwear references. Leather matched with high-tech textiles, both result of Italian artisanship.
Recently contributing to the restoration of the Fontaine of Neptune located in the same square, the Italian brand payed a further homage to its beloved hometown with last collection’s pieces, shirts and a light parachute parkas printed with an original pastel-colored reproduction of Neptune’s silhouette.
Under the dreamy setting of Villa Palmieri’s garden, Givenchy fashion show took place on Wednesday 12. The creative director Clare Waight Keller, as “Gust Designer” of Pitti Uomo 96, brought to the city not only the famous brand’s French allure but also a bit of creative breeze from Asia. The Collection show in fact was, according to the designer, directly influenced by the modern dandyism of Korean young men as well as from her own memories from 90s vibes.
The neutral color palette is highlighted by bright hues of orange, blue and red as well as yellow and mint green prints. Oversized shirts, parkas and jackets interchanged with fitted suits, technical items and sleeveless pieces. Givenchy elegance, without doubt, has a modern sporty soul.
Marco De Vincenzo
Acclaimed as one of the most innovative Italian designer, Marco de Vincenzo chose Pitti 96 to debut with its first menswear collection. “In 2016 I was invited at Pitti as a guest designer for women’s ready-to-wear“, said de Vincenzo “The energy of that event was so incredible that I had promised myself I would return for an important debut”.
“Pum!” is the keyword of a Spring Summer 2020 Collection that turns around the very concept of energy. The man brought to the catwalk by de Vincenzo is an “everyday superhero” who proudly shows his delicate and tender side. Oversized short pants – following the body movements like feminine skirts – show pastel hues of pink and beige, pleated tulle, lacquered macrame, glitters and shining details… several headwords usually linked to womenswear vocabulary masterfully are now new menswear must have. The damn dandy became kind and gentle without loosing his vintage allure and his sex appeal of course.
Massimo Giorgetti decided to celebrate the first ten years of his brand MSGM at Pitti Uomo 96. Remembering when, six years ago, he debuted with Menswear at Pitti Italics, the Italian designer chose again Florence to present Menswear SS20 Collection at the Nelson Mandela Forum last Thursday. The show – organized in collaboration with Camera Nazionale della Moda – is a truly hymn to freedom, joy and the summer. “This Collection is our DNA’s essence, our future’s manifesto”, Giorgetti said “This is only the beginning”.
Bright color blocks, leopard and lobster as well as floral, tropical and tie-dye prints, and again naif motifs, sketches… everything sum up the very brand’s first decade underling the iconic mantra to “take it easy and ironically”! Desire and romanticism – summer emotions par excellence – are majesty embodied in suits and jacquard sweaters. Shirts and short pants aree printed with drawings of the Berliner artist Norbert Bisky, while the collaboration with Fila brand gets renewed this year with funny packs, bags, swimwear and caps.
Finally, that of MSGM is a never-ending summer of love and full joy with no regrets, perfectly captured by a slogan T-shirt telling “Non porteranno mai via l’estate da me”.
Cover: Marco De Vincenzo Menswear SS20 Collection Finale, Courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo