PARISIAN HAUTE COUTURE WEEK SHOWN US THE ART OF DOING FASHION
Haute Couture creations let us reflecting on the artistic side of fashion. Beyond the production and the sale of daily wardrobes, there is the most important factor of the creative process. It could happen that designers see their work, in a sense, sacrified because of mere vulgar market dues. Haute Couture is that field, indeed, where imagination and estro can be totally freed, bringing to life real works of art.
The first who reflected again on the relationship between fashion, architecture and female body was Maria Grazia Chiuri. Starting from a Bernard Rudovsky’s quote – “Modern woman does not need the painter’s canvas; her own body serves as well” – Dior‘s creative director – who was also awarded with the Légion d’Honneur – went back to the very core of the Haute Couture. Making the no-color par excellence (black) the main character of the entire collection, she decided in fact to refocus on shapes. A white peplum enwrapped on model’s silouhette opened the show recalling the ancient Greece and provoking Dior’s guests with the embroidered question “ Are clothes modern?”, also showing us how a dress can be our perfect second skin. The last unsual pieces indeed – that reproduces the very legendary Dior Atelier of Rue Montaigne 30 – made true the very concept of the clothes conceived as our own body’s buildings.
Abandoning darker winter colors, Valentino‘s creative director Pier Paolo Piccioli picked up for next Fall Winter season a palette of bright tones and pastel hues: carmine red, yellow, emerald green and violet alternate with citron green and sky blue. Valentino Haute Couture Fall Winter 2019 2020 Collection speaks an “eccentric” language, made up of friges, plumes, sequins, flowers, flounces and bows. Curious yet sumptuos headpieces, as coming from a far and mysterious world, add to the fable narrated ethnical reminiscences. Extravaganza and opulance are the main characters of Valentino’s myth, the only and unique goddess who can help us being ourselves.
On the contrary, indeed, the new Chanel‘s creative director chose a vocabulary devoted to sobriety. Virginie Viard‘s so awaited Haute Couture debut didn’t disappointed the expectations. Elegance, femininity and sex appeal too went on stage at the Grand Palais, turned into an austher yet beautiful library, freely inspired by that of M.lle Coco. Coatdresses and oversize pants follow sinously body’s movement. Ballon mini skirts altarnate with tight ones while long-lenghts see marmeid silouhettes as well as those of full skirt. Rounded shoulders and more fluid shapes take the place of the iconic Karl Lagerfeld’s geometry. Evening garments are embellished with plumes, draperies, bows and gentle pleats. Eyeglasses are the perfect final touch for a super classy and intellectual Chanel woman.
To end Clare Waight Keller‘s Givenchy Haute Couture Collection rewrote a modern version of the Swan Lake. Creatures of black and white – but also mint green and lilac – feathers, as well as silver and shinig sequins, walked down the catwalk showing a “noblesse radicale” (radical nobility). Geometric shapes meet extra volumes and audacious cuts. Floral patterns and damask fabrics mix up with block colored dresses. The overall effect was theatrical and artistic as well, worthy of a modern fashion drama.
Cover: Valentino Haute Couture FW 2019/2020 Collection finale, Courtesy of Valentino