MILAN FASHION WEEK RENEWED (OR COMPLETELY DESTROYED) FASHION STATUS QUO
Text by: Annarosa Laureti
As all the human groups also Fashion world has its own rules to respect. For all the outsiders of this crazy universe it may be difficult to understand it. Constrictions exists also where it seems not and there are several ways to try to change the status quo or rather to escape from it. Bourgeois style can be revised in a less austere way yet more introspective and fairy, or it can be completely destroyed legiptimizing a chaotic fashion freedom.
Enjoy our second pick about how designers have dealt with fashion decrees during Milan Fashion Week.
A sunny arch enlightens the dark Fendi theatre. It’s the sunrise of a new bourgeois energy. Fendi Spring Summer 2020 Collection by Silvia Venturini Fendi winks to 70s sex appeal without loosing elegance. Diva and squared sunglasses of big lenses and daring neckline join a warm color palette that refers to the Eternal City’s early morning’s shades.
As the Fendi vocabulary suggests, fur is also allowed during the summer, above all if enriched with floral lycra details or check knitted motifs.
Gaillardia and gingham flowers cover up acid green jackets, pale pink and honey yellow soft tulle. A wise play of transparencies let timidly glimpse the body while quilted pieces and tiny knits become the new must have of the charming Fendi girl’s wardrobe. Even the knee-high sock is accepted, but only if matched with sling back loafers and pee toe sandals.
To end the Peekaboo bag turns in raffia, woven leather and logged canvas while the timeless Baguette takes up the romantic floral motif of the entire collection.
Going back to the historical maison’s headquarter, Giorgio Armani enacted the Ancient myth of Ninfea Eco. The Spring Summer 2020 fashion show gave a touchable shape to the immateriality by telling with garments the gradual Ninfea’s conversion into voice. Look after look in fact – from the iconic Armani suit that opened the show till the entirely embroidered robe manteaux and the heavenly long dresses thought for the grand soirée – luxury materials become gradually weightless: the silk becomes soft and wispy tulle, organza and georgette.
The initial earth dark color palette turns into a pale and light one as well: browns, greys and deep violet blues becomes pale pinks and pearl greys.
The sophisticated and elegant Giorgio Armani woman chose fluid pants, long lengths and flat yet so chic heels, without giving up an Eastern twist as it’s easily recognized from the jacket’s shapes.
To end even the accessories follow the same collection’s parabola perfectly matching in the material’s choice with every single look.
From an Ancient myth to a Cinema’s Myth: the new kind of bourgeois and introspective woman as played by the wonderful Monica Vitti in Michelangelo Antonioni’s masterpieces – from “La Notte” and “L’Eclisse” till his first color movie “Deserto Rosso” – is the starting point of Tod’s Spring Summer 2020 Collection.
Always taking care about Italian savoire faire, Tod’s taught us that timeless elegance doesn’t mean boring and stale apparel. Enhancing the latest re-trends, leather goes tie-dye while pony is woven into macramé or zebra printed. Pleated midi lengthen skirts in nappa match with blouson jackets and anaconda overcoats.
Also in this case shoes are flat or kitten-heeled, pointing out that true charm in most cases avoid vertiginous heights. The micro bag with T signature becomes indeed the new Tod’s woman’s best friend.
Finally, in addiction to the fashion show, during Milan Fashion Week Tod’s has also celebrated with its dear clientele the new flagship store’s inauguration in Via Montenapoleone. Tod’s Studio boutique, referring to Cinema Studio, proposes a new way for shopping including a “Pop-Up” area – where video screening allows costumers to watch the maison’s trends’ previews and capsule collections – and it also exclusively sells limited edition products as well as re-editions of iconic pieces.
Workwear and straitjackets opened Gucci Spring Summer 2020 fashion show making the public question on how much fashion world can be a constriction for humans’ style creativity. We all know that diversity and freedom are Alessandro Michele beloved themes and he always finds creative ways to highlight it.
However this time the argument goes beyond, even approaching political issues: nowadays the Power is tentacular and nobody seems to understand how much our choices are forced by social media trends. Is also fashion part of this untouchable and faceless Power that is responsible of the homologation disease? This is the main question.
In his way Gucci creative director tried to give us an antidote – or rather 89 different outfits antidote – to fight against the common defeat. The new world he hopes for makes all diversities holy, of course always under “Gucci Orgasmique” mantra.
The collection sees a celebration of numerous and different fashion styles: from sporty tracksuits to sexy neon color laced underdresses and precious sequinned soirèe dresses. And again patterns, all over GG covered up suits, maxi sunglasses with chains, crops, vinyl gloves… all of this declined in a color palette of acid and shades of yellow, lilac, aquamarine enlightened by neon pink, orange and green.
As just escaped from a science laboratory, Gucci army is ready to teach and bring again freedom to the fashion world.
From an eclectic creativity for freedom to the pure essence without frills: if the praise of women’s personality and individuality is, also in this case, the main Prada Spring Summer 2020’s goal, the Lady of Milan proposes, on the contrary, a different kind of antidote. According to her, in fact, Style can triumph over boring and homologating Fashion codes throughout a reduction operation. Only essential and pure shapes let women express theirselves.
Simple yet precious textiles – such as kid mohair, raw cut leather, satin and brocade – enrich with embroideries and patterns of a vintage allure, gold shining touches and different colors combinations of a sober and cold palette.
Walking down the Fondazione Prada Storage – occasionally reinterpreted in a multicolour version of geometrical lines by an OMA/AMO Studio – models shown a Collection that winks to different decades (20s, 70s and 90s) without melancholia. Prada woman lives always the present and she has the key to be timelessly elegant.
Cover: Gucci Spring Summer 2020 Collection, Photo by Dan Lecca, Curtesy of Gucci