MILaN FAShION WeEK SHOWeD US HoW MUcH MEN mIND ABoUT DETaILS
Text by: Annarosa Laureti
If we think that caring about details is the feminine obsession par excellence, we might be wrong. Since the last few years men has been claiming the fashion right to show their vain hidden side off without bothering to be negatively judge. Male clientele are indeed increasingly affirming their position even in the beauty field. After the launch of an entire make-up set for Him by Chanel, today we witness fashion shows dedicated to male accessories.
The Pursuit of Perfection afflicts everybody without gender distinctions and, since impeccable beauty is after all a matter of refinement, it goes without saying that several brands pay more and more attention to the creation of memorable details and accessories, also for menswear.
We had a clear proof of that with last Milan Fashion Week. From futuristic sunglasses to enormous bags passing through shining underwear in plain view, men can’t do without accessories anymore.
The two antithetic kinds of men – the elegant and the sporty one – finally join together thanks to Les Hommes Spring Summer 2020 Collection. The Belgian creative duo, paying an homage to its hometown Antwerp, masterfully brought to the catwalk an athletic and yet smart man brought here directly from the future, who fiercely matched uncommon sleeveless jackets of multi belts details, double-jacket suits, tuxedos and ties with cycling shorts and multi-packed bum bags. Matrix black sunglasses turn in color-lensed eyewear, remaining the hallmark of a techno lover aliens’ gang.
Sunglasses – in particular the “Medusa Biggies” – took also over on Versace satin shirts! Prints are the keyword of a Spring Summer Collection for men who like daring, “fighting against rules and expressing their self throughout fashion”, as Donatella Versace herself argued. Leopard motifs, lurex details, shining suits, laminated textures, vinyl pants and jackets move from women wardrobe straight to men’s one, defining a new kind of tailoring that cares about strong aesthetic. This new Versace man’s route can count on two different symbols realized by the Canadian artist Andy Dixon: the legendary Bacchus and a red racing car, in its turn synonym of speed and courage
The more sensitive Fendi man, instead, celebrates his romantic and dreamy attitude. Green lover, a bit feminine and bucolic, he reminds us the sweet Elio Perlman of Luca Guadagnino’s movie masterpiece “Call me by your name”, as well as the very setting of the fashion show that took place in a Milanese locus amoenus, Villa Reale’s gardens. This resemblance is not by chance: the Italian director, in fact, created with Silvia Venturini Fendi, the “Botanics for Fendi” prints, that, together with the other geometrical motifs, are that detail that make the difference. Going towards all the needs of poetic souls, Fendi proposes handbags and shoulder bags – Peekaboo and Baguette leading – as must have accessories, simply perfect to bring always with you the poetic man’s essentials, from block notes to poems and books.
Against the current uncomfortable mania of mini bags, Sunnei, for this Spring Summer 2020 Collection, proposes oversize backpacks and sacks, making the five-a-side football bag a fashionable item. And if it was not enough, multi-packed jackets, pants and coveralls will help you to not leave anything at home. Then what you really need to join Sunnei gang is a solo drop earring with a colorful detail.
Rucksacks, bowling bags and handbags are also main characters on Prada Spring Summer 2020 catwalk that we had the pleasure to re-see in Milan as this year it took place in Shanghai. However, next season hallmark of Prada man will be the Boy Scout style foulard – rigorously wrapped around the neck, like Sam Shakusky of “Moonrise Kingdom” taught us – and the bolo tie to wear matched with long-sized shirts.
Dulcis in fundo, the new damn artists’ uniform is redesigned by Isabel Benenato whose Spring Summer 2020 Collection is inspired by Cy Twombly’s sketches and action paintings in general: an anonymous white suit becomes a pristine and yet eccentric garment thanks to the original pattern reproducing abstract paintings.
Cover: Versace Menswear Spring Summer 2020 Collection Finale, Courtesy of Versace