The whimsical garden full of large flowers and funky topiary that the fashion crowd had to walk through to reach the show hall was a very precise hint: Francesco Risso’s first Spring Summer collection at Marni is eclectic and fun with floral accent and unusual proportions. Part fifties housewife, part twenties flapper and part skater, his ideal woman plays with fashion in a loving and ironic way. The hems are unfinished, the construction of the garment undone, the seams exposed. Many rules are broken: vintage bathing suits are transformed into tops, mink coats are painted bright colors blocks and their belts are extra long and dragged through the catwalk, classic fifties silhouettes become oversize. As the designer himself put it: “Beauty seen as a playful act, thus totally subversive”.